Rice Rockettes: A Legacy of Asian Drag in San Francisco

The Rice Rockettes, a San Francisco-based Asian American drag troupe, has witnessed a dramatic shift in cultural attitudes towards drag and Asian American representation since its inception in 2009. Despite their "ripe" age, the group aims to remain relevant, bringing "new and fresh" perspectives to the stage.

"Now that Asian drag is mainstream, are we still relevant?" pondered Chi-Chi Kago, a member since 2009. "I like to think so."

The Rice Rockettes are widely considered the "premiere" all-Asian drag troupe in San Francisco, according to Estée Longah, a Filipino American drag queen and the group's house mother. While "premiere" simply signifies their status as the longest-running AAPI drag house, their influence within the queer Asian American community is undeniable.

Longah, along with other drag queens she met while working with AAPI community groups, founded the Rice Rockettes. She observed a distinct difference in the atmosphere between mainstream LGBTQ+ pageants and those within the AAPI community. The former were competitive and focused on achieving success, whereas the latter fostered a stronger sense of community, connection, and camaraderie – a feeling she sought to replicate with the Rice Rockettes.

The group's founding came at a crucial time. Gay Asian men often faced racist stereotypes, leading many to reject drag, viewing it as a gateway to transition. The Rice Rockettes aimed to challenge these narratives by providing a safe space for AAPI men to explore drag, regardless of their intentions regarding transition. The troupe's mission was twofold: to create a comfortable environment for AAPI men interested in drag and to rekindle the supportive community Longah had experienced in queer AAPI pageants.

"What I think the group has excelled at most is storytelling and humour, with a zany, uniquely San Franciscan perspective," said Imelda Glucose, a Filipino American drag queen within the group.

Over the next decade, the Rice Rockettes packed San Francisco bars and clubs for their shows, often performing at the Lookout, a popular venue in the city. They prioritised community engagement, holding fundraisers for local causes, including those affected by Hurricane Haiyan in the Philippines and the 2011 Tohoku earthquake in Japan.

From October 2013, the group hosted their own monthly show, "Rice Rockettes Presents…". They even auditioned for "America's Got Talent" in 2011, which, while not entirely positive, helped garner them notoriety. Their 2019 tenth-anniversary show, showcasing a "Best Of" selection and pushing their limits onstage, marked a peak in their popularity.

For many Rice Rockettes members, the troupe's unique storytelling approach allowed them to explore their identities with humour and provocation. Glucose recalled a performance by Doncha Vishyuwuzme, tackling the stereotype of Asian Americans eating dogs. Vishyuwuzme delivered a catchy pop song performance, revealing that she was serving dog parts instead of chicken, reclaiming the stereotype in a witty and subversive manner.

"The way that everyone has chosen to infuse their identities as Asian folks into their performances, and the ways that we riff on the things that other people who aren't Asian or aren't part of our community have made fun of us for, it's like reclamation in a way," Glucose explained.

Kristi Yummykochi, another drag queen, used her drag to explore her Japanese American heritage, drawing inspiration from her family history for her personal performance.

"When you're doing a drag number about that kind of personal story, you're learning about it," Yummykochi said. "You're asking your family members, you're doing research about what happened, and 'What was this?', 'How can I convey this story?' And that, I think, brings you closer into your identity."

The pandemic brought challenges, forcing the Rice Rockettes to adapt and hold digital shows and monthly video chats. While live performances resumed in 2021, the pandemic's impact on San Francisco's nightlife presented new obstacles. A surplus of drag content and the high cost of living made it difficult to draw audiences, leading to fewer queens performing due to burnout. In response, the group rebranded their monthly show to "Estée Longah's Casting Couch," featuring both Rice Rockettes members and guest performers.

One of the most difficult moments in the group's history was the attack on Panda Dulce, a fellow Rice Rockette, during a Drag Queen Story Hour event at the San Lorenzo Library in 2022. A group associated with the Proud Boys barged in, hurling insults and hateful slogans. The attack deeply impacted the group, especially Longah, who considered Dulce her drag daughter.

"That really sort of changed the way that we sort of operate and also how we think about safety," Longah said, urging members to be vigilant and aware of their surroundings.

The Rice Rockettes now take precautions, like informing each other about their gigs and avoiding private bookings.

Vermicelli Versace, a Vietnamese American drag queen who joined the group in 2019, stressed the importance of their ongoing work amidst recent attacks on drag and trans individuals and the rise of the Stop Asian Hate movement.

"We're here for a reason," Versace said, "and we're here to continue to be a light for the community."

Longah noted how many members joined the Rice Rockettes with limited drag experience, but through the group, they've grown and developed their personas, eventually venturing out to pursue their individual careers. This was true for Siam Phusri, a Thai American drag queen who joined the group two years ago and won Mx. GAPA in 2022, a pageant organised by the GLBTQ+ Asian Pacific Alliance (GAPA).

Despite the influx of Asian American drag representation, Kago expressed pride in the Rice Rockettes' role in championing the art form for the community.

"I'm really thrilled at how much Asian drag representation there is right now, and I like to think that we were a little bit at the forefront of that, and maybe inspired some of these other groups to exist," Kago said. "I hope that there's still a place for us at the table with all this Asian representation that's out in the world."

The Rice Rockettes continue to evolve, embracing the changing landscape of drag and Asian American representation. As they prepare for their 15th anniversary on 13 October, they remain committed to providing a platform for AAPI voices and celebrating the vibrant art of drag.