Britain's End of the Line: A Gem at the Edge of the World
Some places hold a special place in the nation's heart. They might be forever linked to a glorious historical event, or perhaps they're known for their sporting achievements, or maybe they're simply breathtakingly beautiful. Penzance, nestled at the far western tip of Cornwall, is one such place.
While mainly known for being the end of the railway line, Penzance is a truly remarkable terminus. It sits where Britain ends and the vast, untamed Atlantic Ocean begins. For writer Martin Hesp, who spent time in London, the idea of being able to board a train and journey westward to this rugged, granite-bound land where wild waves crash and dolphins frolic seemed almost miraculous.
Hesp has always held a soft spot for Penzance, and he's not alone. While not as quaintly charming or abundant in surfing beaches as its more popular neighbour, St Ives, Penzance boasts a distinct character. Unlike St Ives, which can feel crowded, especially during its annual Mazey Day celebrations, Penzance, along with its excellent neighbour, Newlyn, retains a real and authentic community feel.
As Hesp wrote for Cornwall Live, Penzance may be "a bit rough around the edges," but the feeling that local people truly live there is undeniable. It is the capital of West Penwith - the unique, almost mythical, granite peninsula that juts out like a toe into the Atlantic.
Hesp was thrilled to discover a hidden gem in this town at the end of the line: Chapel House, once home to the Penzance Arts Club. As a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, Hesp has stayed in some of the world's most luxurious and stylish hotels. However, he believes Chapel House could rival any of them in terms of beauty and charm.
This grand old town house, built in 1790 to the highest standards of the day, stands just a stone's throw from the harbour. It has housed several notable figures, including Admiral Samuel Hood Linzee of HMS Temeraire, made famous by JMW Turner's iconic painting. It was also the base of the Carne family, an influential banking and mining dynasty who played a key role in Penzance's development during the 19th century, investing heavily in the harbour and railways.
The current owner, Susan Stuart, a former City of London executive and charity CEO, discovered Chapel House in 2012 and fell instantly in love with it. She told Hesp, "I knew Penzance well. I had an old friend who moved here in the early '90s, and I helped him move. After that, I regularly came down to stay because I just took to Penzance. I really loved the place."
Penzance, with its captivating history, rugged beauty, and authentic community spirit, offers a unique experience for those seeking a truly special destination. It stands as a reminder that even at the edge of the world, incredible treasures can be found.
