Athleisure giant faces scrutiny for 'Be Planet' campaign as environmental group files complaint in France.
On the eve of the Olympic Games, Lululemon, the popular athleisure brand and official outfitter of Team Canada, has been accused of greenwashing in France. The Canadian environmental campaign group Stand.earth filed a legal complaint on Tuesday, alleging that Lululemon's "Be Planet" campaign contradicts the company's environmental record.
This follows a similar complaint in Canada and recent protests at Lululemon stores, including the company's flagship location in Vancouver.
"We are asking French officials to investigate how Lululemon can claim to 'Be Planet' while creating more planet-harming emissions every year than half a million cars," said Stand executive director Todd Paglia.
Why is Lululemon being accused of greenwashing?
As Canada's Olympic athletes prepare to wear new red and white designs from Lululemon at the Games' opening ceremony, Stand is hoping its complaint resonates with the French Directorate General for Competition Policy, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control (DGCCRF).
Launched in 2020, the "Be Planet" campaign features images of rivers, forests and nature, conveying a "vague" message that Lululemon contributes to a "healthy" planet, according to Stand.
However, the environmental group argues that this message is in stark contrast to Lululemon's actual operations. Since deploying the slogan, Stand claims Lululemon's Scope 3 emissions (indirect pollution) more than doubled by 2022, reaching 1.2 million tonnes of carbon dioxide.
Lululemon's 2023 Impact Report also reveals that over 60% of the materials it uses are fossil-fuel derived and non-biodegradable â primarily polyester and nylon â contributing to environmental pollution.
"Our athletes deserve to be at their absolute best in a brand that aligns with their values as Canadians, and not misled by deceptive and greenwashing marketing," said Stand senior corporate climate campaigner Rachel Kitchin.
Kitchin drew a comparison to other Olympic kit sponsors who are actively pursuing renewable energy and emissions reductions. Stand's latest scorecard for the world's top fashion companies, for instance, shows that Puma and Nike scored relatively well for their use of renewable electricity.
A "first test" for the French regulator against greenwashing
Stand believes the complaint represents "the first test" of the French regulator's preparedness for a wave of new European legislation.
In January, the EU passed a new greenwashing directive aimed at banning misleading environmental claims. This directive mandates that sustainability claims be independently verified by accredited bodies.
While Lululemon France's greenhouse gas emissions are relatively low, the complaint argues they do not reflect the extent of Lululemon Athletica's global Scope 3 emissions in its supply chain, which the French subsidiary has access to.
In February, Stand filed a similar complaint in Canada, leading the Competition Bureau Canada to officially open an inquiry in April to investigate concerns about the company misleading customers about its environmental impact.
Protest actions have also escalated in recent weeks. On Monday, activists staged a street performance outside Lululemon's Vancouver flagship store. Last week, the group dropped a banner at the Toronto Home of Team Canada building, suggesting the athletes will be "dressed in oil."
The polluting nature of the fashion industry
While campaigners have focused on Lululemon, they are also calling for industry-wide change.
The UN estimates that clothing and footwear production accounts for 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions, with manufacturing processes still heavily reliant on coal and other fossil fuels.
These planet-damaging fuels also infiltrate the supply chain through synthetic fibres made from oil and fracked gas, and the heavy fuels required to transport products, says Stand.
According to the campaign, the most significant change fashion companies can make to reduce emissions in their supply chains is transitioning their manufacturing to renewable energy.
Lululemon's response
Lululemon did not immediately respond to a request for comment from Euronews Green.
A spokesperson for the company told Climate Home News that "Be Planet" is not a marketing campaign but "a pillar" of the company's impact strategy and that the firm is confident its public statements accurately reflect its impact goals and commitments.
"We are taking direct action and are committed to collaborating with industry partners to help address supply chain impacts on climate change," the spokesperson added. "We welcome dialogue and remain focused on driving progress."