A BBC investigation has revealed a concerning trend in food hygiene inspections, with delays potentially putting consumers at greater risk of food poisoning.
Analysis of public data has shown that one in five restaurants and takeaways in England, Wales and Northern Ireland has not been inspected by food hygiene officers for over two years. This delay, coupled with a growing backlog of inspections from the pandemic, is raising serious concerns about the adequacy of food safety checks across the UK.
Environmental health teams, responsible for conducting these inspections, attribute the situation to a recruitment crisis and a lack of funding. The public services union Unison has labelled the situation a "serious public health issue". A spokesperson for the union stated, "Inspections are now so delayed that it's perfectly possible for food businesses with shoddy hygiene practices to operate with little fear of ever being caught."
This alarming trend comes amidst heightened food safety concerns following an E-coli outbreak in June linked to contaminated products. Despite these concerns, Hospitality UK, representing food and drink businesses, asserts that three-quarters of eateries achieved the top hygiene rating score in their most recent inspection. A spokesperson for the group said, "Despite the pressures the sector has faced in recent years, the safety of our customers remains non-negotiable."
However, the experience of classic car blogger Steph Holloway highlights the potential dangers of lax inspections. In May 2023, she and her partner suffered suspected food poisoning after dining at a curry house in Huddersfield, despite its five-star hygiene rating.
âI walked in and I thought âthis isnât very cleanâ,â said Steph. âWe just said, âoh letâs eat, it will be fineâ - but it wasnât fine."
Steph and her partner noticed concerning hygiene standards, including a dirty serving tray, black dirt on door handles, and a mop bucket propping open a fire door. Within hours, both fell ill and Steph was bedridden for two days.
The couple reported the incident, but a follow-up inspection did not take place until September. The restaurant subsequently received a zero hygiene rating, the worst possible score, with inspectors finding mouldy fruit, poor cleaning practices, and fruit flies in the kitchen.
Stephâs experience underscores the importance of regular inspections, even for establishments with seemingly good hygiene records. She now takes extra care when choosing where to eat out, highlighting the public's growing anxiety around food safety.
Nicola Carrington, a 24-year-old hygiene inspector in Salford City Council, offers insight into the challenges facing the profession. Despite her passion for the job, she notes that many people her age are unaware of this career path, contributing to the recruitment crisis.
"I've been to businesses, which are really quite bad," said Nicola. "Iâve been to one with a cockroach infestation. I think the businesses know thereâs an issue but what do they do about it?"
The Food Standards Agency (FSA) oversees food hygiene inspections in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. Emily Miles, the FSA's chief executive, acknowledges that councils are making progress in clearing the backlog of high-risk inspections from the pandemic, but expresses concern about the lack of checks on lower-risk venues and new businesses.
Miles cites a decline in council funding for food safety and a 15% drop in inspection staff over the past decade as contributing factors to the current staffing shortage. In April 2021, the backlog of businesses awaiting inspection reached a record high of 77,000, double the usual level.
The FSA is actively addressing the situation through a national apprenticeship scheme and considering lowering skill requirements for entry into the profession.
"Itâs something that could be a slow burn to a very uncomfortable and unhelpful situation," said Ms Miles. "If there are not enough people with the right skills in these local authority inspection roles - there just isnât that line of defence."
The FSA's research indicates that individuals are at higher risk of foodborne illnesses like E-coli, salmonella, norovirus, and listeria in establishments with a three-out-of-five hygiene rating compared to those with a five-out-of-five rating. Miles highlights the potential devastation of a major outbreak, emphasizing the importance of maintaining food safety standards.
The staffing situation is equally dire in Scotland, where the food hygiene scheme uses a pass or fail system. Food Standards Scotland reports a critically low staffing level, with a 47% deficit in local authority personnel. The organisation attributes this shortfall to Brexit and new export processes, adding to the workloads of food hygiene teams.
Phoebe Clay, director of Unchecked UK, a coalition of consumer protection organisations, urges the new Labour government to increase funding for councils.
"Relatively small investments would make the difference between having an inspection every two years to having one every six months," she said.
In response to the concerns raised, the Department for Housing, Communities and Local Government (DHCLG) promises to "get local government back on its feet" through multi-year funding settlements and reforms to the local audit system.
The Scottish Government acknowledges the challenges faced by councils in delivering sustainable environmental health services.
This BBC investigation highlights a critical issue in the UK food safety system. The lack of resources and personnel, combined with the increasing delays in inspections, raises serious concerns about the public's health and puts the UK's reputation as a food nation at risk.
